Summer Colours…
First image from the set that we shot last Monday.
Model - Kate Errington
Photographer - Martin Higgs
Makeup - Myself
Le Papillon: Defined, Dramatic Butterfly Eye (Great for Mono-lids and Hooded Lids)
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This is inspired by an old video by Gossmakeupartist and would work on those with mono-lids and hooded lids, who want dramatic color to show up on their eyes. The wing shape and the colors I chose are a good deal different from his as I was going for a more dramatic look, reminiscent of what has been going down the catwalks recently, but the basic premise is the same.
You will need a slim black pencil and 3 shadow shades; 1 light, 1 bright, 1 dark.
For a less dramatic look you can choose colors in the same family (e.g. pale, medium and dark purple) or complementary colors (gold, orange, copper). For more “pop”, I went with shades that weren’t exactly next to each other on the color wheel; pale-gold, teal, and purple.
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Step 1: Laying down the shape. The diagram above shows you the approximate shape of the eye. What you’ll get is a sort of rough “E” shape at the outer corners. The more top-heavy your “E” is, the more dramatic the wing will be.
The important thing is that the top of the “E” MUST be visible when your eyes are open, and you can only do that by going above your lid. Don’t follow your natural crease, especially if you have hooded or mono-lids, as the crease folds downwards and will cover up any eye color you apply there.
Step 2: Smudge the inner portions of the “E” inward with a firm shadow brush or your finger. It should fade inwards, rather than end in a harsh line.
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Step 3: Apply the palest shadow to the inner 1/3 of the lids and also bring it down around the corner of the eyes to the inner 1/3 of the lower lash line as well. You don’t have to use the same color as me, but in general, if you have smaller eyes, don’t pick a dark shade for this area.
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Step 4: Pack a strong teal green in the center of the lids, and also along the central portions of the lower lash line to mirror the upper lid.
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Step 5: Finish the lid by packing a dark purple into the remaining 1/3 of the lids, going right up to the edge of the black kohl but not going beyond it. You can use your brush to blend into the black pencil a bit so there isn’t a harsh an obvious black outline.
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Step 6: Run the black pencil along the upper lash line and along the waterline, before applying black mascara to finish the look.
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Quick-Tip for uber-drama: Make the top part of the “E” shape angular rather than rounded.
winged gel liner tutorial-
1. Prep the eye. Be sure to apply any eyeshadow you want before applying the eyeliner.
2. Taking a gel liner, line the eyes from the inner to outer corner staying close to the lashline. Make the liner as thick or thin as your desired look. For a rounder looking eye, apply liner thicker towards the middle of the lid. For an almond shaped eye, apply it thicker towards the outer corner. To keep the shape of your eye, apply an even line following your natural shape.
3. With your eye open, decide where you want the highest point of the liner and mark it.
4. Keeping your eye open, draw a wing connecting the highest point to the meeting of your lashlines. Doing this with your eyes open will help you to see exactly where your liner will lay when finished. It can help you to avoid or be aware of any fine lines or folds in the lid.
5. Back to the highest point of the liner, connect it to the already existing liner. You can either curve the line or keep it straight depending on your preference.
6. Color in the sparse area and clean up any jagged lines. Done!
Products used:
Urban Decay Primer Potion
Maybelline Eye Studio Gel Liner**TIPS**
-Remember your eyes are not identical! What you do to one eye, you may not have to for the other! ex. If one eye has more lid space, you may have to build up more liner on that eye to make the lids appear similar.
-Try not to do one entire eye perfect and then expect the same on the other. Do step one on one eye, then step one on the next. Step two on one, then step two on the next, etc. That way, you’re looking at your eyes as a whole to the look, rather than separate pieces.
Another image from the ‘Summer Colours’ section of my shoot with Martin Higgs & Kate Errington
I adore this image, and the colours look fantastic!
I used a White pencil base underneath the eyeshadow colours so they would be true in shade. I think its a great tip for anyone using bright colours!
Find out what the hottest lipstick shades for spring are and tell us if you’ll be rocking any of these shades!
Smoky Blue-and-Pink Winged Eyeshadow: MAC Fuchsia and Frozen White pigments
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This is a look that should be multi-faceted and contoured. If you have mono-lids, just draw in the crease along your socket line, above the lid crease. This takes a bit of practice to get even but it looks great!
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Step 1: Use a flat brush to pack a black base like MAC Paint Pot in Blackground or elf Duo Cream Shadow in Licorice over the entire lid. At the outer corner, draw in a wing following the angle of the lower lash line. For the Dummies’ Guide version to winged liner, click here.
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Step 2: Pack a metallic fuchsia pink to the outer halves of the black base. You can use MAC Fuchsia pigment.
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Step 3: The next step requires a specific type of shadow; translucent white with a blue duochrome sheen. MAC Frozen White pigment and I Nuovi Star shadow are both very similar, but the I Nuovi is softer and less sparkly as it’s a pressed shadow.
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Step 4: Use a charcoal grey like Urban Decay Gunmetal to run along the top of the wing, along your socket line, using a pencil brush. Then smoke out just slightly to prevent unevenness.
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Step 5: Apply black liquid liner along the tide line (inner rim of your upper lash line) and also wing out at the outer corner, following the angle of the eyeshadow. The liner runs along half the lash line only, not all the way to the inner corners.
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Step 6: Finish with black mascara, and beige liner along the waterline (I used NARS Rue Bonaparte but Essence has an affordable beige kajal pencil, 19 All I Want.)
Not ready to try a multi-colored/rainbow effect all on one lid? Look to these beauties and embrace one bold hue!